Patagonia Expedition '04
Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales


 

Cygnus melancoryphus, Cisne Cuello Negro in Castellano, Black-necked Swan in gringo.

From Torres del Paine, we headed south through gorgeous countryside of estancias and raptors, passing these swans and many others en route…,

…before arriving to Puerto Natales at the mouth of Seno Ultima Esperanza, Last Hope Sound.

Seno Ultima Esperanza

Sound of Rain

Seno Ultima Esperanza

Shipyard in Puerto Natales, from wence we continued south for Punta Arenas, where we hoped to catch the next morning's only ferry crossing the Straight of Magellan to the island of Tierra del Fuego. Throughout the weeks leading up to this expedition, amidst the chaotic blizzard of phone calls and emails, two main themes emerged: from Dad's camp, crossing the Straight of Magellan; from Mark's camp, penguins.

"We leave the park and are heading to Punta Aranas. I read about our next destination and discover there is a place to see penguins. I read further about the other possible site to see penguins and realize Punta Aranas will be our best shot. I'm consumed."

The only mainland (and hence accessible by the Hilux) penguin colony we could locate was a short distance west of Punta Arenas on Seno Otway, Otway Sound, the turn off less than 20km north of Punta Arenas. In short, this was our only chance to visit a penguin colony without sacrificing a day in Ushuaia, which no one wanted to do. Chilean Ruta 9 is an incredible road, especially considering its location. Dusk was pushing in fast across the archipelago and the Hilux rocketed through beautiful windswept landscape, including this puente. We finally made the turn off, half an hour of light remained at most, and that dirt track, man, it just kept going, and going, and going… while the daylight faded, and faded, and faded.

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